Ireland; South to North and Inside Out - Day 4

I’m so pleased that they didn’t do breakfast. The room was so dirty that I would be suspicious of the state of the kitchen. It does make you wonder what they think the second B in B&B stands for.

I’ll walk to the road, work out my direction. I hate my knees. The muscles are fine, the weather is fine, everything would be perfect if it wasn’t for the pain they are giving me. Still the choc-ice seems to have helped [in an effort to reduce the swelling and ease the pain I had spent an hour or so before going to sleep with a compression bandage on my right knee, leg raised over my head and a choc-ice shoved in the bandage until it melted to nothing (the choc-ice was still in the wrapper)]. This part of town looks much nicer, I stopped too early, I bet that B&B does breakfast. I’m actually scared of getting on the bike, I’ll just get to Lisnaskea and take stock there. At least I’ll be in the UK so my lack of travel insurance won’t be a problem if I need to speak to a doctor. Ok knees here we go. I can’t believe this, the left one hurts more than the right. Two choc-ices tonight.

There are so many crows in Ireland, or they might be jackdaws, ravens, maybe rooks. Chris will know, I’ll ask him. Hang on, that’s a British speed limit sign, miles per hour. I must have crossed the border. There was nothing to indicate it. That Polish coal for sale sign over there is in Euros, but this is a BT phone box. I must be on the border. Britain, abroad, Britain, abroad. Nothing to show it but the clues are there. 10km to Lisnaskea, what’s that in miles? No, that is miles, so what’s that in kilometres?

Time for breakfast. Where did I put my sterling? Milk and I need some carbs. Potato farls, bread and potato sounds like a traditional food, also sounds a bit like farts, two excellent reasons to buy it. My knees aren’t as bad as yesterday afternoon. I reckon I can get to Fivemiletown, and then maybe Omagh. I’ll take stock again at Omagh. So Green road to Fivemiletown and then white road [B-roads] to Omagh. In Omagh I’ll get some Euros, some sterling and some pain relief cream, maybe another compression bandage too. Where did this rain come from, it was sunny a moment ago. Bloody British weather.

This is rivalling the climb at Caha Pass. No it’s not, that’s a lie. But it is steep, and wet and the scenery is incredible so there are similarities. That’s a good place for a windfarm – also nice to reach the peak. The windmills look like giants, I think Cervantes got to that one first. I’m with you Don Quixote. But for now downhill. What a downhill, wet and winding road but no cars, I can go as fast as I like. No fear just get lost in the moment. I’m 12 again.

Omagh is bigger than I expected, or at least the outskirts are. Like so many places the centre itself is just a High Street. This one though is sadly familiar, even though I have never been here before. I think I must be standing exactly where the film footage was shot – the view down the hill towards the church. Thought provoking rather than moving. A proper banana at last. The Republic’s were adequate but a bit over-ripe and small but still infinitely better than the green, manky excuse for a banana that they were offering in the Scottish Highlands. Oh, hi. Nice pyjamas [I had just been approached by a middle-aged man who looked like he was on a day out from a hippy colony]. 40km to Londonderry. That doesn’t sound right and you look a little kooky but I would expect you know better than me and you seem like a very nice guy, and I don’t want it to be far so I’m going to believe you. Only 24 miles to go and my knees held up ok, time for the last leg so next target is Londonderry, less than 2 hours to go. That pain cream has done nothing and my knee has stiffened up. If I go on the white road I’ll pass through a decent number of villages and no doubt they will have B&Bs I can stay at if it gets too bad. So let’s go scenic and be careful.

I don’t mind these climbs now. I don’t know why they bothered me so much a couple of days ago (is it really only a couple of days). They are worth it for the views, and the downhill. Today is on a par with day one for beautiful scenery. People who travel to holiday in Ireland should make a point of taking in Northern, it is a stunning place. So much to distract a cyclist with painful knees. The villages are all at the bottom of the hill. There must be a historic reason – Paul will know. All of the villages are dressed in red and white. The hand painted signs wish Tyrone good luck. Is there a County not in a cup final?

Five steep hills in an afternoon is enough for anybody. I’m not going to be able to find a B&B in a place as large as Londonderry, I’ll stop at the village before it. Oh, nothing here and purple pyjamas was wrong, this is over 30 miles and counting. Wow, I wasn’t expecting that, Derry is stunning. Churches, a cathedral, all on the river of a historic walled city, there must be somewhere to stay. I should even break the Indian/Chinese monotony. Last push for the day.

Hmm, not so pretty up close but all I need is a B&B and restaurant. Maybe a pub too. I’ve no idea where to start, maybe if I just follow the road that I will take tomorrow and see what’s on that. Shit my cleat has jammed, I’m going over. That really hurt. Lucky I have bandages on my knees already. Probably looked quite funny, better on this road than the busy one I was joining. B&B – perfect and not too far from the centre. Hi, do you have any…oh sorry you don’t work here. No rooms, crap. Nowhere nearby, everywhere full. I will travel some distance for something, yes, I don’t really seem to have a choice. I’m never going to follow that, you have already described two different routes, these must be the worst directions ever. Thank her and get out, it would be nice to find somewhere before it gets dark.

I’ll give her directions 5 more minutes. Although these might not actually be what she said. It’s cold and it’s dark and this is taking me away from the road I want tomorrow. Sod it, I’m going back and will just follow that. Londonderry has just been bad luck, I must be able to find something, some time if I go towards Malin Head.

Back in the Republic. I’m glad I got Euros in Omagh. Hang on, that’s Bridgend, where she said the hotel is. And in fact there it is. How did that happen? And a proper restaurant next door, not Chinese or Indian. Just in time, it’s really dark. Please have a vacancy. Through Londonderry, in and out of Northern Ireland in one day, 101 miles. So much for a shorter day. My knees feel better now than they did this morning (aside from the blood coming out of the left when following that fall). All in all a very good day. [Those worried about my diet will be relieved to know that night I had local venison covered in neither a curry sauce or MSG, and very nice it was too]